"I define locals, for the record, as those of us who have been here for a few generations and plan to stay. So my definition does not include Barack Obama. He was not local. At least to me he wasn’t.
He wasn’t until I saw that photograph of him body surfing a break-neck barrel from last August. He had that local-boy reach of the arm as he glided down a huge summer swell, the grace of his relaxed face, proud, turned into the tidal force of current, the way only a local boy can take a real wave and make it his very own ride, sleek and easy. A natural local boy. "
Lois-Ann Yamanaka is the author of, most recently, “Behold the Many.”
(Photo credit: Alex Brandon)
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